Sin City Takes a Bite Out of New York: Golden Steer Opens at One Fifth Avenue
Las Vegas has long been synonymous with nightlife, glitz, and indulgent dining, and now, that essence has arrived on the East Coast. The iconic Golden Steer, a staple of the Las Vegas steakhouse scene for over 70 years, has officially opened its doors at One Fifth Avenue in New York City. The historic Art Deco structure has housed various culinary legends, and now it adds another illustrious chapter to its storied past.
A Culinary Legacy Revamped
Golden Steer’s new venture is a thrilling endeavor for Nick McMillan and Amanda Signorelli, a husband-and-wife team at the helm. Having taken over the establishment after Amanda’s father, Dr. Michael Signorelli, passed away in 2019, the couple is eager to preserve and expand upon their family’s culinary legacy. “It feels surreal,” McMillan remarked, acknowledging the weight of history that One Fifth Avenue carries. Indeed, the venue has hosted renowned chefs like Marc Forgione and Mario Batali, along with influential food personalities such as Anthony Bourdain and Keith McNally.
A Captivating Atmosphere
The architectural transformation, helmed by Modellus Nvous—known for projects like Tatiana and Crown Shy—has delivered a stunning space that evokes the glamorous Vegas of the 1950s and ‘60s. Guests can expect an alluring atmosphere, complete with plush tufted booths, stylish globe-light sconces, and a captivating bar-lounge. The establishment features two private dining rooms: the “Mob Room” and “Showgirls Room,” each designed to imbue a sense of exclusivity and intrigue. A carefully curated soundtrack featuring Frank Sinatra and his Rat Pack contemporaries further enhances the nostalgic Vegas vibe.
A Menu with Promise
Golden Steer’s menu, crafted by executive chef Brendan Scott—whose credentials include stints at Montrachet and Carne Mare—showcases a blend of classic steakhouse dishes and Italian-inspired delights. The standout dish is the USDA-prime, 24-oz. bone-in ribeye, expertly grilled and juicy. Some diners have found the Italian offerings particularly memorable, such as the house-made steer sausage served over Umbrian lentils and a trio of tender veal medallions dressed in prosciutto with a luxurious wine-butter sauce.
While certain dishes shine, like the Caesar salad for two, which is prepared tableside and features a zesty punch from whole anchovies, not all menu items have hit the mark. Diners have noted that the “Vegas’s Largest Baked Potato” fell flat in flavor and temperature, and the bananas foster, prepared tableside, lacked the necessary caramelization to elevate the experience.
Navigating a Competitive Landscape
Golden Steer enters a bustling steakhouse scene in New York City, characterized by a surge in beef trends. With high-profile establishments like La Tete D’Or, Bourbon Steak, and numerous others vying for attention, the competition is fierce. Master butcher Pat LaFrieda has reported a notable increase in beef demand among NYC restaurants, emphasizing the steak craze that continues to thrive, despite changing perceptions about red meat.
Evolving to Meet Local Tastes
Despite its Las Vegas roots, the Golden Steer must adapt to its new New York audience. Amanda Signorelli expressed the intention to stay true to the original; however, she acknowledges that what works in Vegas might not necessarily resonate in Manhattan. The concept of a high-quality burger, commonly found in many top-tier steakhouses, along with a broader selection of seafood, could enhance the menu.
Golden Steer’s allure stems not only from its lavish decor and storied history but also from its ability to connect with the evolving tastes of its clientele. The challenge will be to remain faithful to its roots while catering to the discerning preferences of New York diners.
As Golden Steer settles into its new home, the excitement surrounding its potential is palpable. With its dazzling atmosphere, noteworthy dishes, and the rich legacy it brings from Las Vegas, it stands poised to become a noteworthy player in NYC’s culinary landscape. Whether it can maintain its "golden promise" remains to be seen, but one thing is certain: the Sin City charm in New York is here to stay.