Twin Tails: A Culinary Jewel at Columbus Circle
In the bustling heart of New York City, the third floor of the Deutsche Bank Center—formerly known as the Time Warner Center—has seen its fair share of dining establishments come and go. Among the sterile walls and high-end shops, one might assume that the culinary scene would embody luxury above all else. However, one unexpected culinary surprise is taking the spotlight: Twin Tails, an enticing Southeast Asian restaurant that has quickly positioned itself as a standout in the area.
The Journey of Twin Tails
After a rocky start during its launch last fall, Twin Tails has found its rhythm and is now a beacon of flavor and creativity amidst the culinary disappointments that have marked its predecessors. Brought to life by the entrepreneurial spirit of the Quality Branded team, known for establishments like Don Angie and Smith & Wollensky, Twin Tails offers a refreshing twist on Southeast Asian cuisine—a first for the group.
Atmosphere and Design
As you cross the threshold through Twin Tails’ polished brass doors, the atmosphere instantly transforms. What once felt like a typical mall is now filled with soft, ambient light, chic design, and an inviting ambiance. The expansive venue cleverly divides its 300 seats into five intimate dining areas, crafted by the renowned design firm AvroKo. With touches of pink and amber hues, vibrant yellow banquettes, and elegant burled rosewood tables, the setting makes you forget entirely that you are in a shopping mall.
A Menu to Savor
At Twin Tails, the menu is an exploration of Southeast Asian cuisine, featuring sections dedicated to satay, small plates, seafood, and meats. The dishes are designed with the diner’s experience in mind, but without the aggressive upsell culture typical of many restaurants. Prices are reasonably set for the quality offered, with small plates reaching up to $29 and mains often hitting the $39 to $65 range.
Star Dishes: The Highlights
One of the stars of the menu is the “Night Market” grilled chicken. Inspired by the flavors of Thailand’s bustling night markets, this dish features chicken brined with fish sauce and lemongrass before being grilled to perfection. Served in a broth that captures all the drippings, it stands out as one of the best poultry dishes in the city, with both white and dark meat boasting a juiciness that is hard to find.
The pork cha gio rolls also deserve a mention, praised for their crispy spring roll wraps bursting with a flavorful mixture of pork and umami-rich cloud ear mushrooms. These are delightful when paired with fresh lettuce leaves and a tangy fish sauce-based nuoc cham, elevating the dining experience with each bite.
Seafood Excellence
Despite early skepticism about seafood offerings, Twin Tails has demonstrated considerable improvement under the vigilance of Chef/Partner Craig Koketsu and Executive Chef Chad Brown. The red curry sea bass has become a noteworthy dish, marinated and deftly wrapped in banana leaves before grilling, imparting a distinctive zest from galangal and lime that enhances the natural flavors of the fish.
A Rare Misstep
However, even the brightest of menus may have its cloudy moments. One dish that fell short was the crispy garlic shrimp, apparently a centerpiece of their offerings. Unfortunately, on this occasion, social media might have prevailed over reality, as the shrimp were tough, chewy, and served cold, leaving diners disappointed.
Sweet Conclusion
Moving towards the end of the meal, the dessert menu brings back the lively flavors associated with Southeast Asian cuisine. The multi-layered rainbow sherbet cake is a crowd-pleaser, featuring vibrant layers of guava, Makrut lime, pineapple chili, and a delightful graham-cashew crunch. Each flavor stands out distinctly, making it an exciting and colorful way to conclude the meal.
Final Thoughts
While Twin Tails may not transport you straight to the streets of Saigon or Bangkok, it undeniably provides a much-needed option for those craving Southeast Asian flavors in the convenient locale of Columbus Circle. With a blend of breathtaking design, a well-curated menu, and a commitment to quality, Twin Tails is a culinary gem that has successfully redefined dining expectations in this vibrant part of Manhattan.